In addition to checking for loose or worn tie rod ends, look for bent steering arms or tie rods because either can cause toe wear, too. Also, the steering should be inspected for worn or bent parts. So anytime the tires show toe wear, toe alignment should be checked to see if it is out of range.
The new tires will suffer the same fate unless the cause of the misalignment is identified and toe is reset to specifications. Replacing worn tires may replace the worn rubber, but it won't eliminate the tire wear problem. In both instances, wear can be aggravated even more if the tires are underinflated. TOE-IN will wear the OUTER area of the tread while TOE-OUT will cause wear on the INNER area of the tread. But on radial tires, toe misalignment tends to roll the shoulder of the tire under as it scrubs producing wear on the inner or outer ribs only. The direction of the feathering tells you if the tires are toed-in or toed-out (rough edges towards the inside signal toe-in while rough edges to the outside indicate toe-out). Uneven wear on inner edge of tire tread caused by toe-out misalignment.Ī classic symptom of toe misalignment is a feathered wear pattern across both front tires. At this rate, it doesn't take long to wear down the tread. Only 1/8th inch of toe-out will scrub the tires sideways 28 feet for every mile driven. Toe-out is a bad condition to have because it causes the tires to scrub as they roll along.
This may occur if the tie rod ends are worn, or if the control arm bushings have collapsed. TOE-OUT is when the front edges of the tires are farther apart than the rear edges. This will produce zero rolling toe as the vehicle is being driven down the road because the natural tendency for the front and rear wheels is to toe-out due to rolling resistance and compliance in the steering and suspension. Most rear-wheel drive cars and trucks have alignment specifications that call for a little bit of toe-in (say 1/16th of an inch or so). TOE-IN means the front edges of the tires are closer together than the rear edges. To compensate, a little bit of "toe-in" or "toe-out" may be added when the wheels are aligned depending on whether the vehicle has front- or rear-wheel drive. This too can allow toe alignment to change. Likewise, the rubber bushings in the control arms have some compliance and deflect slightly when the vehicle accelerates, brakes, turns and cruises. The joints and sockets in the suspension and steering linkage all have a little play, which when added together can allow wheel alignment to change depending on how the steering and suspension are loaded. We say in theory because toe alignment changes when the vehicle is being driven. When both front wheels are aimed straight ahead and the distance between the leading edges of both front tires is exactly the same as the distance between the trailing edges, the wheels have "zero toe" and are theoretically aligned. Toe refers to the parallelism between the wheels as viewed from above and is usually measured in inches or millimeters. Toe is the most important wheel alignment angle because it has the greatest effect on tire wear. The basic alignment angles we're talking about here are toe, camber and caster. This will produce the least amount of rolling resistance, the least amount of friction, the least amount of tire wear and the greatest traction.
Ideally, all four wheels should be aimed straight ahead, parallel to each other, perpendicular to the road and perpendicular to their respective axles. Wheel alignment refers to the geometrical relationship of the wheels to the vehicle itself, to each other and to the road. What Every Motorist Should Know About Wheel Alignment by Larry Carley copyright
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